Orange Iris (Perfume Thoughts, Iris Nobile, Acqua di Parma)

8028713452062I was talking to my friend Therese the other day about the great perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, and i had mentioned to her that the one unique thing about him is that he almost has a signature note – orange blossom. That note permeates in a lot of his creations, from his commercial releases (Ellie Saab) to the ones from his eponymous lines (APOM, just to cite one)  He plays around with it, making it smell fresh in each of his creations. I think one of his masterpieces is he Le Male flanker for Jean Paul Gaultier (Fleur de Male) where he makes the orange blossom uniquely masculine. As we were chatting, I pulled up a list fo all his creations, and I had forgotten that he had signed Acqua di Parma’s Iris Nobile, one of my favorites. I also realized I had not worn this for a while, and it made me want to revisit it. Well, what do you know, but the first thing I smelled when I sprayed it – Orange Blossom. Even though this is an iris perfume, it is the orange blossom, first and foremost that appears to be front and center here. I kept on looking for that iris note – rooty, almost paper-like – that I am accustomed to, but the iris here is more flowery, more butter, softer. And framed with the orange blossom, it is richer and denser, and it smells more like a ‘traditional’ perfume. I remember that this was my very first Acqua di Parma perfume, and thought it smelled so different from the mostly cologne-type releases that I used to associate with them. I remember wearing this perfume a lot in the mid-aughts, and all of a sudden too all my memories from that time of my life came back (Don’t you love it when that happens?) proving that wearing a scent is an emotional experience for me. I think at this point there has been flankers for this – I am making a point to check out something called iris Nobile Sublime – I wonder if it is a ‘stronger’ version of my EDP, which is already a powerhouse in sillage and projection.

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