Wondering Wandering (Perfume Thoughts: Nomade, Chloe)

375x500.48434Well, the good news about Chloe’s new perfume Nomade is that it is not your usual fruity floral. I read that Nomade is supposed to be a dirtier version of the Chloe signature scent, which by the way, I discovered that is a favorite of a lot of people – I know I have smelled it at one point but don’t remember it much so it must not have made a distinct impression on me.

Nomade is a modern chypre, so it starts out citrusy with a oaky woody finish. and that is exactly what it is, with a small hint of plum on top. It is definitely not sweet, focusing more on the tartness of the plum. It’s nice and wearable, and does smell just a tad more different than your usual Sephoa bottle (I did spray from Sephora, by the by)  The perfume is not a home run for me – the drydown is synthetic and generic – but this would make a good office scent, and I bet I will get compliments wearing it.

Beachwear (Perfume Thoughts: Irene Neuwirth for Barney’s New York)

s-l225If there’s a subgenre of perfumes I really dig, it’s the ‘beachy’ scents.  Have something packaged like that, and have it smell like Coppertone, and I am in it. I have been going through all my samples lately (my perfumes are still in storage, with no ETA of when I can get them) and chanced upon Irene Neuwirth for Barneys, from a couple of years back. Neuwirth is a jewelry designer from Los Angeles (so appropo) and her collection, I read, veer to more ocean and beach influence.

Makes sense. The perfume is a straight up beachy floral scent, and I of course love it. Ralf Schwieger is the nose, and the top notes are neroli, ‘water notes,’ and ‘sand.’ I kind of laugh at that, because the base is pure Coppertone, and they are trying to make it sound much snazzier. The floral notes that follow include orange blossom, jasmine, and rose, and they are my three favorite floral notes. So of course these intermingling just makes me so happy. But you know what makes me sad? I am too late to this perfume party that the fragrance has been discontinued. It’s not impossible to get it, but this fact surely makes the perfume infinitely more attractive to me (‘You always want the ones you can’t have’) The hunting starts.

How Green Is Your Valley? (Perfume Thoughts: Vert Boheme, Tom Ford Private COllection)

375x500.40091Vert Boheme was recently reintroduced by Tom Ford for his Private Collection to showcase classic green notes in perfumery, and let me tell you, Vert Boheme is as green as they come. Out of the four from this new series, I was attracted to Vert Boheme for one shallow reason only: La Boheme is one of my favorite musical pieces of all time. When I realized I had a sample of this from my pile, I grabbed and go.

I think I have been vocal about my love of Tom Ford perfumes, and this one is no exception. However, this would be on the bottom of my TF want list. There’s not much complexity in Vert Boheme – just a galvanizing grand dose of galbanum. I googled galbanum because I wasn’t exactlu syre what it was: “Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin and a product of certain umbelliferous Persian plant species in the genus Ferula, chiefly Ferula gummosa and Ferula rubricaulis., ” and that’s per Wikipedia. Tom Ford’s notes say there is magnolia, and okay, I guess I kinda get a faint hint of it. This perfume certainly is very aromatic – I get some doses of mint in the middle notes. Vert Boheme is pretty mild compared to his other creations, but I still like it. I wore it over shorts and T-shirt and felt overdressed, owing to the scent’s elegance.  A mild want.

Eau de Outrage (Perfume Thoughts: Outrageous, Frederic Malle)

o.45935Whenever people hear that I love perfume (and collect) more often than not, they always ask me ‘Do you have Frederic Malle?’ The snarky reply would be ‘Of course, any perfumista has,’ but of course I am much nicer than that (most of the time) Truth is, I love Malle perfumes, and for me collecting all of them would be more ‘aspirational’ than anything else because of their price. But sure, I own a couple of bottles and honestly, use them sparingly. I would love to own all of them and use them everyday, but of course, the likelihood of that happening is tiny.

The other side to that equation is that the perfume snob that I am, I now kind of look at the brand with some wary. It has become so popular, every knows about them, people consider it the Hermes bag of perfumes, and frankly, a lot of people wear them. So now I kind of put my nose up on them. But in my heart of hearts, I love them because in the end, they are good perfumes, done well with fantastic ingredients. I mean, you see where your money is going when you purchase a bottle.

Which brings me to Outrageous. This is a collaboration between Malle and Sophia Grojsman, who Malle considered as some kind of idol. And why not? She created Opium and Paris for YSL. This was originally a Barney’s Co Op exclusive from way back, and I always thought of it as ‘diffusion Malle’ because it was priced more accessibly. I have had numerous samples of this, but never really immersed myself into it. Recently, it has now been added to Malle’s regular roster, and I got another sample recently, and tried it.

It’s a beauty. A nice tropical cocktail of a perfume perfect for the higher temperature days to come. It has breezy notes of tangerine and green apple, and bergamot makes it zing. It has cinammon that rounds it up, and is finished off with white musk that is not generic smelling. It is full-bodied but feels light, and it stayed with me for hours, which is unusual for a citrusy scent, proving the worthiness of its price point. It seems a tad dated, like this was something from the nineties or early aughts – but that could be me projecting – I don’t know why, but it feels like an Annick Goutal to me for some reason. Nowadays, this is not terribly niche-y in unique wise. But all in all, I would be happy to add this to my collection, as it were. Just don’t ask me if I have it.

 

Smell Sads (Perfume Thoughts: Gabrielle, Chanel)

74799wI have had Chanel Gabrielle since before it was launched. I was offered it before it was available to the public, and of course, I took the chance for an ‘exclusive.’  But sadly, it did nto excite me. The SA at my Chanel store was raving about it, and telling me this is going to be the No. 5 for the next generation (‘Millennialls love it,’ she says) but for me it felt ordinary, so I just kept quiet.

Fast forward to now. For some reason, this was one of the bottles I took with me when I moved, and I have been wearing it a lot. I don’t dislike it, for sure, but I just feel like I wear it as some kind of of obligation. It’s a pleasant office scent, and idea-wise, I love the floral bouquet of jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose and orange blossoms. But my problem with this is that it feels so synthetic, and so familiar. It doesn’t feel like a Chanel – I keep on wanting to put some aldehydes in there. (For some strange reason it reminds me of YSL Baby Doll, which I used to wear a lot int he 90s – maybe that’s why it smells familiar) I get compliments on it from people at the office, and I take them, but it lacks the one thing I look for in my scents – an emotional connection. I don’t crave this, and that just makes me sad.

Green And It’s Gone (Perfume Thoughts, Vetiver Geranium, Creed)

_13318625When Creed launched their Acqua Original Collection in 2014, I thought it was a good idea. I thought it would be kind of in line with what Guerlain did with Aqua Allegoria, only with Creed’s signature woods and florals. I got the Jasmine one and do enjoy it from time to time, but everything else in the line underwhelmed me. So I have been rummaging through my samples lately and found that I have a vile of Vetiver Geranium, so I thought to give it a second chance.

So true to the idea, we get a real fresh, watery vetiver at first spritz. It’s nice and clean, and boring, if you ask me. There are some woodsy notes (light patchouli) to round it all up, and yes, it’s okay, but nothing to write home about. Then it just disappears. I spray more, and get the same blast of greenery, and after a couple of minutes it’s gone again. I have not even turned the corner upon leaving my apartment and already it’s gone. Is it just me, or is this really weak? I read that this has the feel of a cologne but the tenacity of a perfume, but some colognes last longer on my skin.  So yeah, to say I am underwhelmed is an understatement. There is nothing for me to smell, and there is no way in hell I would pay Creed prices for something that’s…nothing.

Amen (Perfume Thoughts: Intoxicated, By Kilian)

42555I have heard, I thought as a joke, that By Kilian’s Intoxicated is a dupe of Mugler’s A Men.  And I thought it was funny, and listen, I have been there before, and invariably a lot of perfumes do smell like each other, but there’s always something – a punch of a note, the quality of the material, that makes a perfume different from another.

I have to say this, though. ‘Intoxicated’ is as close to a ‘dupe’ of A Men as one gets. There’s that tenacious creamy coffee note by way of vanilla, the edge of patchouli, the cardamom, the cinnamon. I wouldn’t know the difference in a blind smell test. And I know A Men well – it has been in my wardrobe since it came out, and I even have some of the flankers (the tonka bean one is delicious)  I was prepared to even say, well, Kilian’s version has better material, but I don’t even know if I would say that, The longevity and sillage is same (and they are both tenacious)

So I ask – does this perfume have an reason for existing?