Cold And Bitter (Perfume Thoughts: Dent de Lait, Serge Lutes)

06-Dent-De-Lait.w330.h412I know Serge Lutens Dent de Lait came out about two years ago but I am not as current as I used to be, and I recently just got a sample. I may be confusing this with some other Lutens releases but perhaps I ignored this because ti was part of their very expensive line, the ones that cost a thousand a bottle.

But no, Dent de Lait now comes in a ‘reasonable’ price point, so I might as well try it  I see that a lot of reviewers hate this scent, so I was skeptical. The back story is certainly interesting. Inspired by childhood, it has some weird note: almond milk, dried milk (!) and baby powder. It also promises a lot of aldehydes. When I asked for a sample, the SA said, “it’s metallic,’ and I don’t remember if that made me want it more or less.

My verdict: baby powder with flowers, cold and dry because it is bathed in aldehydes. It isn’t bad, and it sort of reminds me of something from Commes de Garcon, and it probably is very hard to wear. I kind of like it, I am drown to this very cold flower note (a rose?) and there’s a certain bitterness to it that I like. It’s a cold and bitter flower.

And perhaps that’s what I like about it. On this cold Valentine’s Day, it is fitting. Me, alone int his cold and bitter world, clutching a single rose.

Musk Mask (Perfume Thoughts: Bois et Musc, Serge Lutens)

375x500.8549God knows I love Serge Lutens’ perfumes, and the ones on bell jars are even more appealing because they are not on the ‘export line,’ meaning they used to be only available at the Palais Royal in Paris (Some Barney’s branches and Aedes offer them now)  Since I am still trying to use up all my samples, I was elated to find I had a generous decant of Bois et Musc in there. I think I got this decant when I still did not have the bell jar, and I know this is at least five years old. And spray I go.

The top notes seem to be a lot of musk – animalic but not too bad, or it did not seem as dirty as Musc Kublai Kahn. Since the weather was a little on the warmer side, I held off for a bit and let the scent settle, and told myself I will layer the scent. So after about ten minutes or so, I put more. The woods have come up at this point, and they seem to be your generic fare, though quality of the material is definitely better.

And then I don’t smell much. I don’t know if it’s because it is warmer, or my nose just got so used to it, but nothing is registering. This is a skin scent, I read now, but I feel like it just evaporated into thin air. Could my decant be too old? Or did my skin just eat this perfume whole? I can’t help but feel disappointed. I vow when I get all my perfume back to use them – none of this ‘saving’ bull crap anymore. I wonder if my bell jar would be as weak?

The Cedar Of Your Smile (Perfume Thoughts: Cedre, Serge Lutens)

nd.591I moved my fragrance collection around recently and my Serge Lutens collection got separated from her brothers and sisters. I don’t know why, but I don’t reach to use them more, when I love most of the collection. I was thinking of that last night and told myself that today I will be wearing something from Papa Serge.

It was already warm this morning and I tried to search for something not too spicy, and after a couple of sniffs, settled on Cedre. Honestly, I have not worn this in a long while, and I thought to myself, well woodsy won’t be too bad.

Cedre is still too spicy for a hot day. I smell, just like a lot of Lutens fragrances, stewed fruit. Apple, maybe? I researched the notes and this is what I get: tuberose, cloves, cinnamon, amber, musk, and cedar. So perhaps it is the amber I am getting. I wish I got more of the tuberose but here I am a couple of hours into wearing it and I only get the spices. It’s not unpleasant, but perhaps I should wait on a cold day to fully realize the fragrance. With the heat, I smell generic Lutens.

Life Is A Mystery (Perfume Thoughts: Serge Noire, Serge Lutens)

sergecrIt is kind of cold-ish today, but not really. But, I have been itching to wear a lot of my “cold weather” scents so I said sure why not? Today I wore Serge Noire, bu Serge Lutens.  I remember having a complex relationship with this scent. I remember where I was exactly when I first sniffed this – I was at Aedes, and it had just come in, and I was so excited to try it. And all that smoke, and all the weird top notes – clove? hot conammon? more clove? more smoke? – it was off putting, and I don’t think I gave it a fair chance. But I have a friend who wore this constantly, and when i used to hang out with him, I used to say “Are you sure that’s Serge Noire?”  and of course he was. And I started to get obsessed with it, and when I tried it again, and eventually bought, it became one of my favorite releases from all of Uncle Serge’s. It’s the dry down, stupid, I told myself, and indeed, it is. The cedar-y cinammon-y woodsy incense is so appealing that even right now, as I smell myself, I am transported to an old church, and all I could do is kneel and pray – in gratitude for a real perfume.

Smell Me To Death (Perfume Thoughts: Serge Lutens De Profundis)

I am sort of superstitious, and I was kind of scared of Serge Lutens De Profundis. Look at the copy:

 As long as I’m alive, so is my Death.
Every hero on a quest for glory is racing towards the proof of his mortality.

The scent of chrysanthemums and incense.

Scary, right? But today, on Friday the 13th, I thought it was an appropriate scent – and it would even match my Floral Friday criteria. It took me a long time to get used to wearing it, and now I finally have a bottle of this. Maybe because death has touched me recently, and well, what else have I got to lose right? Maybe I really should take my superstitions away, because this perfume is as gorgeous as it gets. The juise id a deep violet, but this is a green scent as it burst opens: a bouquet of freshly cut flowers (hyacinth and carnations) and you can the flower’s petals, stems and even a bit of the dewey soil where it was pulled from. It’s creamy, rich, and melancholy. I know the inspiration is culled from flowers from a funeral but I imagine it more like a gathering of flowers from an early morning walk as I contemplate love and life. The heart of the perfume is chrysanthemum, edged by teh Lutens incense, though the latter isn’t prominent on me. I smell just a hint of rose, though. All the flowers stay in the dry down, muted but teh presence is definitely there – kind of like a smoother softer version of a photograph. I love this to death (haha) and this for me is an example of how perfume can be art: it makes me think, makes me reminisce, like a painting or a piano concerto